Introduction
Etrogs originated in Southeast Asia about 4000 years ago. They still grow wild in India in the valleys of the lower slopes of the Himalaya Mountains. These citrons were the first type of citrus to be cultivated. In antiquity, the etrog was called the Persian or Median Apple. Later it was called the Citrus Apple. Originally, citrons were grown as ornamental plants. The fruit was used to perfume clothes, as a moth repellent, and its peel was used as a spice for food. The etrog was also used medicinally as a cure for seasickness, an antidote to poison, and as an antibiotic.
Cyrus the Great brought the citron from Persia to Babylon when he conquered it in 539 BCE. Alexander the Great disseminated it around the Mediterranean region in 300 BCE. In Biblical times, the Jews cultivated the etrog in the Land of Israel for the observance of Sukkot. The etrog was also used as a symbol of resistance. In the first century BCE, Alexander Yanai, the last Maccabee high priest and king of Judea, publicly engaged in a Sadducee water ritual (Succah 4:9) in the Temple of Jerusalem. Infuriated, the Pharisees flung etrogs at him in protest. During the time of the first Jewish revolt against the Roman Empire (66-70 CE), etrogs were cast in Jewish coins instead of Emperor Nero. These “Masada coins” were minted in bronze. They have an inscription in Paleo-Hebrew that says “For the Redemption of Zion.” When the Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed in 70 CE and the Jews were expelled, the etrog went with them to Yemen, Morocco, Syria, Greece, Lebanon, and Southern Italy. The Romans loved citrons, and cultivated them throughout Italy. Some of the earliest greenhouses, built from mica, were invented to protect etrog trees in Northern Italy.
The Biblical source for bringing the etrog into the sukkah is Leviticus 23:40:
“And you shall take of yourselves on the first day the fruit of a goodly tree, a palm branch, the myrtle branch, and the willow of the brook; and you shall rejoice before the Lord for seven days.”
Ingredients
Some families have a beautiful tradition of preparing a confection from the etrog called succade (derived from Sukkot) to be served during the Tu Bishvat Seder. In the oldest recorded etrog recipe, from the 1400s, the etrog was cut in half and its pulp was removed. It was immersed in seawater for 40 days. Every two weeks, the seawater was changed. Once the peel was cured, the salt was removed by soaking the rind in boiling water. The peel was then candied by soaking in a sugar solution. The candied peel was sun-dried or sealed in jars to be used later. This peel has a unique flavor, different from that of other citrus fruits. Succade can be eaten out of hand, but is more commonly added to desserts. It is sometimes coated in chocolate to be consumed as confectionery.
Succade Recipe
1 Etrog
3 cups sugar
3 cups water
Preparation
Step 1
Dice the etrog into ½ inch cubes.
Step 2
Place the etrog pieces in a saucepan. Add 3 cups of water and 3 cups of sugar.
Step 3
Heat over a medium flame until the mixture boils.
Step 4
Lower the temperature to a simmer, and allow to cook for 45 minutes.
Step 5
Turn off the flame, and allow the etrog to cool in the pot for 30 minutes.
Step 6
Strain the fruit.
Step 7
Spread the diced etrog over a cookie sheet. Allow it to dry for 12 hours.
Step 8
Store in jar, tightly sealed.